Weekend Project – Picket Fence Shelf

Just wanted to show off a little recently completed wood project.  My brother ended up with a huge pile of extra fence pickets and I put some of them to good use making some shelf units for my daughter.

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The process was pretty straight forward, each shelf consists of 11 pickets and 3-4 30″ boards.  The board length is variable of course which may alter the number of pickets needed.

First, I did a rough sand job of each picket, rough because I wanted to remove the worst of the rough bits but leave some of the overall “rustic” roughness of the surface.  The pickets were also trimmed off by 1″ incrementing lengths (1″, 2″, 3″, etc) so they would stair step across the back.  The boards for the shelves were also cut from an 8 foot 1×10″ board.

At this point, everything was painted with several coats of white paint.

Assembly is a bit tricky but by the third shelf I had a pretty good method down.  The side pieces get marked for where the shelves should fall (variable intervals depending on needs).  Then the side shelves are screwed onto the ends of each shelf in the appropriate places (I just screwed right through into the ends of the shelves, careful not to split things).  Two screws each picket, each shelf point.

Then I measured out from the edges on the backside to line up the longest center picket in the middle, this is then screwed down with a 1/4″ off set from the bottom from the sides.  This will leave a small gap along the bottom along the back.  The purpose is to make the unit more stable so it will only hit the floor on the side pickets.  Getting 4 side pieces to sit flat as legs is a lot easier than getting 11 pickets to line up flat on the ground (which would cause the shelf to wobble).

Next the two shortest back pickets are attached along the edges of the back.  The remaining pickets get attached last and I found it was easy enough to just eyeball the spacing.

I also added some simple boxes to the bases of two of the shelves to give some added height (as pictured above).  This part is optional.

Security Phase 2 – Doors and Windows (Planning)

I just wanted to start off by saying, this isn’t a how to at all, it’s more some general ideas I’ve been looking over for how to add door and window security to my recently set up video monitoring system.  Basically, I want a log of when and if the doors and windows are opened and closed.  I’d prefer not to run a bunch of wires, so wireless sensors are in order.

What I ultimately want is for an indicator light on a webpage to change based on the status of the door or window, a timestamp log to be created and possibly for some sort of email or text alert to occur.  ULTIMATELY I may even use this whole project as an excuse to finally develop my Phone app skills and build an app that I can view it all on, but that’s farther down the road.  A basic web page is fine for now, and it’s something I can manage.

My worry with wireless sensors was that I’d have to constantly change the batteries.  Until I realized that it would be trivial to design the sensor so that it only transmits when the window is open, and while I am not building my own sensors (I probably could) I imagine the makers of such sensors realize that you could save a ton of battery life by designing the sensors to only work when open.  I did a bit of searching on Amazon and found a6 pack of sensors for less than ten dollars.  It appears that each sensor has it’s own receiver/indicator which emits an audible tone.

This is actually probably alright for my needs.

While I am not an Electrical Engineer, I am familiar with basic circuit flow and basic electronics.  I don’t have any of these sensors yet but I can make some basic assumptions based on what I know.   When the window/door is opened, some trigger is closed and the sensor starts transmitting some sort of radio signal.  The fob thing which is always listening will receive the signal and activate some sort of internal speaker. 

There are a couple of issues that need to be solved here.  One, while the sensors hopefully are designed to conserve battery power, the FOBs are probably not.  I also want the signal to go to a computer and not sound a mostly useless audible alarm.  The power issue isn’t a huge issue.  With the right transformer brick providing the proper voltage, it wouldn’t be hard to rewire the contacts to allow for the units to be plugged into the wall, all at once, off of one power supply.  They look to be small enough that they could be mounted inside an electrical box in a small array and wired for power.

A similar method can be used to transform the speaker signal into a trigger for some sort of simple IO board.  To activate the speaker, some sort of voltage is applied to the speaker, the speaker can easily be removed and the contact points that would previously have fed the speaker could be wired to am IO board.  When the voltage is supplied to the "speaker" it will instead be read by the IO board, triggering a signal that "the Window/Door is open."

The main puzzle I have right now is, what would work best for the IO board.  I see two options here, and both would function differently, and I may even require both.  I could go with an Arduino board or a Raspberry Pi.  Both of these options seem to have advantages and disadvantages, and there may even be a third option which corrects the disadvantages.

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Let’s look at the Arduino.  The Arduino is ideal for dealing with the IO board.  It is, by design, meant to work with this sort of "hands on" electronics systems.  It even has build in contacts for working with two wire IO interfaces.  I don’t know anything about Process, the programming language of the Arduino, but I’ve been meaning to learn and I am capable of learning it.  The problem is on the output.  Arduino is not designed to work with PCs in any simple way.  From some quick research online, the Arduino would require a serial interface and likely special software running on the server to poll the Arduino at set intervals.  Which brings up another issue.  As near as I can tell, the Arduino is a "pull" interface, meaning the server would have to pull the status from the Arduino, as opposed to "push" where the Arduino would push the data to the server as it changes.

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So there is also the Raspberry Pi.  The Raspberry Pi is a computer itself, which makes interfacing with the server simple and easy.  It runs a simplified OS but connecting the Pi to the network is simple and telling it to push even a text file status update to the server via FTP or some similar network protocol is trivial.  the issue comes in the need to read the sensors.  I’m not entirely sure the Raspberry Pi is even capable of reading an analogue IO interface right out of the box.  Some searching suggests it is possible through an additional interface board of some sort but not right out of the box.  Looks like there are a handful of GPIO points build into the PI.  The PI also feels like much more than is really needed for this simple application.

Its kind of a tricky decision, I’ve been wanting to play around with both the Pi and the Arduino so I may just pick up one of each and see what works.  Both are around the same price and the whole system in the end will end up costing around $50-$75, which is almost nothing.  The final step once the sensor data lands on the server is updating the web page but I already am familiar enough with building webpages and simple polling scripts that this step is the easy part.  Whatever I end up going with I’ll certainly document the results in the future.

Security Cameras Part 1: The Hardware

Something I have been vaguely looking into over the years is a DIY solution to home security and automation.  There are several places you can pay to have this sot of thing installed and they often include a subscription for monitoring and leasing the equipment.

We’ve been having some issues lately with kids in the neighborhood knocking on doors and windows and running off late at night.  I had set up a temporary measure using my Sony Handicam on a tripod and even caught one of them once but the video was not clear enough due tot he darkness to really see anything.  Plus, filling the memory card on a daily nightly basis is not likely very good for the camera, nor is leaving the thing plugged in constantly good for the battery.

I could also use my Panasonic DV100 to capture the low light video pretty easily but it takes tapes and would only record an hour max.  Plus I don’t have an AC adaptor for it, so even if I hooked it up to a VCR or something, I’m still only looking at 2 hours max.  Not to mention wear and tear on the camera.

What I really needed was a dedicated camera designed for this sort of thing, one with night vision.  I’d tried using webcams hooked to PCs in the past but that doesn’t work in the dark either and the webcams I own are all ancient.  Plus I am tethered to a PC by a USB cable.  Amazon had a daily deal on some D-Link DCS-932L wireless cameras (which wasn’t as amazing as it seemed on paper due to Amazon’s pricing screweyness but whatever).  They were wireless, they were day/night capable and for the price I could get 2-3 of them compared to one of the other cameras I had been looking at.

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The cameras themselves are decent.  They were cheap, which I liked, and thought they are not super cheap in quality, they are SD only, which I was aware of but its a bit more of a letdown than I expected.  They were easy to set up, I plugged each into the router using the network cable, scanned for the IP address, and opened the GUI.  From there was was simple enough to assign IPs to each camera and connect them to the WiFi.  There is a myDlink service included for “anywhere access” but the cameras can be used independently from myDlink.  I found some software which lets me view multiple cameras at once and may set it up on a TV using an old broken Netbook I have laying around for quick access.

After ordering and receiving the cameras, I had a realization that I had neglected to consider.  These cameras are NOT outdoor cameras.  Specifically, they are not deigned to be outdoor cameras.  In my research, I knew simply placing the cameras in a window sill this would be a problem due to light reflection from the windows.  Just because I can’t see the infrared light at night doesn’t mean it wouldn’t create a massive glare on the window.

It’s still light.

I didn’t even get far enough for that to be an issue, the cameras during the day were horribly obscured by the window screens and the street lights outside, while not bright, created a massive amount of reflection from the blinds.

Oh well, at the very least, I could use them indoors, though the point was to watch the doors and driveway at night.

Still, I didn’t give up.  I did some research online and found many people had used these outside, for at least months and in one case years.  The main concern was condensation and humidity, and to a lesser extent, temperature.  One video even put the camera out on a table in the pouring rain for an hour with no ill effects.

So I set out to build a weather resistant enclosure for the cameras.  I’ve used plastic electrical boxes in the past for other projects and this one was pretty much just drilling a few holes in some plastic.  The boxes I found at Lowes came in 4×4 and 6×6 sizes.  I had my wife measure the camera and she said it was not quite 4 inches tall minus the base, so I opted for the 6×6 box.  The boxes themselves are pretty thick and I wasn’t sure the inner cavity was actually 4″x4″ on the smaller boxes.  Plus going with 6×6 gives the cameras room to breathe a bit, since it is still an electronic device and will generate some heat.  My main irritation wads that the 6×6 boxes were almost twice the cost of the 4×4 option.

I started by measuring out the center along one axis of the box lid, then measuring out the placement of the camera’s circular lens ring on the other axis.  I then found the center point of the circular areas and marked the counterpoint of the hold I was going to drill.  I measure the camera camera ring at 2″ in diameter and used a 2″ drill bit put apparently came up off somewhere because the hole was about an eigth of an inch larger all around.  Slightly annoying because I wanted a tight fit but it was workable and I can always seal it later with some caulking or even just some foam weather sealing that I have laying around.

Next I drilled holes in the bottom of the box to match the screw hole mounts on the bottom of the DSC-932L camera mount.  This size was dependant on the bolts I had handy that would fix in the screw holes.  This would allow the camera to be bolted into place inside the box.  Finally, I needed to get the power cord through.  The largest normal drill bit I had was not quite large enough to make a hole for the power cord to fit through but I was able to ream out the hold enough to get the plug through.  The benefit of this tight push was that the hole would be smaller and easier to seal up.

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So after mounting the camera with bolts and pushing the power through and assembling the cover around the lens, I hade a self contained weather sealed box (the electrical box has a nice rubber seal between the lid and box).   I am not real sure yet on the best way to mount the box but I placed it outside last night on a plant stand and let it run through a rain storm.  Worked out fine and the video from outside the window worked fine.

This project definitely isn’t done but it’s off to a good start.  Next will be finding an effective way to mount the boxes under the soffits, and, more important, providing power.  The cameras are wireless to the network but they still plug in.  I had some ideas about running extension cords through the soffits to the garage but I’m thinking it will be better to just install some outlets in the attic at the appropriate points.  I have a motion activated light I took off of our rental property after the fire that I plan to install on the front door, so the front door cam may just get a hook up right there on the light, since the motion light will need to be on all the time anyway.

The project is working out pretty well though despite a few hiccups.

Building a Better Dance Pad

So a while ago, I designed and built my own Dance Dance Revolution Dance Pad.  I’m not going to go too much into the details behind that, but for a variety of reasons, I’ve actually used it considerably less than I’d hoped.  I also found recently that the arrows don’t detect properly anymore since they are connected to the Directional Pad which reads as analogue not digital.

So, I fixed it.  While I was fixing it, I finally added the button box I’d been meaning to add.

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The button presses of a Playstation Controller are simply the creation of an electrical contact.  This can be replicated on any similar button by soldering wires to either side of the PVC board’s pads inside the controller.

Anyway,  the first task was to rewire the pad’s “buttons” to the shoulder buttons of the controller board.  Simple enough.  Now they show up as “buttons” and not analog pulls in the PC.

Step two was to make the box removable from the pad for easy storage.  This also allowed me to replace the ball of wire that I’d ended up with when building it the first time.

IMGP5406 This mess becomes a network cable and a network jack.IMGP5405 The network cable is the one used for the new connections tot he shoulder buttons.

Next is the box, which I wired to the four face buttons of the controller.  It really doesn’t matter if I use the “start” and “select” buttons since in the end, the Playstation shell is tossed out and I simply map the buttons to whatever I want in game (I have yet to see how this will affect it if i use it on the Playstation).

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The end result is much cleaner and much more reliable all around.  I will probably add some stickers or something to the box to make it look prettier.

Procrastination Isn’t Always Bad

I almost always have a couple of dozen projects I’m working on.  These are not projects for work or even household projects that my wife wants me to take care of.  These are personal projects of varying importance though generally of little overall *real* importance.  For example, at the moment I am working on:

– Building a solid automated online streaming radio service.

– Playing through several video games.

– Burning old family VHS tapes to DVDs

– Building a small corner shelf for putting my games and DVDs on in the bedroom to reduce the clutter in the closet.

– Repairing several laptops i have that don’t work.

Etc…

Anyway, Several of these projects I’m “working on” are continual, like playing through various games.  Others I have not even started on, though I still would say I’m “working on them”.  Some I may never start.  The point is that I tend to think about a large string of projects in the back of my mind almost constantly.

Often when i have “free time” I do something completely different when I should be doing “a project”.  I have a tendency to procrastinate on these things.  Often this procrastination though is good because inevitably, I get an epiphany on some project that makes it extremely simple and quick and it’s the best possible solution.

The latest example, which inspired this rambling blog post involves my home network.  It’s not huge but it is larger than most people’s home networks and it “evolves” much more than most people’s home networks.  Currently, the phone line feeds the cable box thing (we’ll call this the Residential Gateway or RG for lack of  better term though I’m not sure it’s actually accurate).  It comes out of the RG and feeds a router.  This router was put in by the cable guy when he came out to replace the RG when it broke.  The thing is, he left the old router in place (also provided by the phone company).  This initially created some issues since it gave me two IP address sets which is annoying when you’re doing a lot of NAT translations for things like streaming radio and VNC access to half a dozen machines as well as hosting FTP, HTTP, etc.  I also own a switch and a hub, though I don’t use the Hub because "hubs suck”. 

I lived with forwarding all ports to the internal router for a while but inevitably I swapped the Hub for the switched, changed the IPs of all my machines and rebuilt the NAT table.  it was a one time pain but it makes things simpler.

I put the old router aside until I discovered the the new router does not support the older less secure Wireless protocols that my Nintendo DS requires.  So the old router went back in almost exclusively for use of the NDS, whoes IP address I don’t care about.  It also serves as an access point for guests or whatever to keep them off of the main network.

The issue I had recently however involves a remote location in the house in my wife’s office.  She has a PC out there for “office use” and I put a second PC out there recently with a KVM for my “experimenting etc” use.  Currently it hosts Lameazoid Radio, an OpenSIM server, a session of Outlook that is attached to archives of all of my old email PST files and I use it for downloading Torrents.  The main point is, it creates a lot of network traffic.  The problem is, there’s only one physical cable running to the office and running a second one would be a pain.  the obvious answer is, put in a switch.  I could use the hub but I fear the high traffic of the one machine would cause lots of issues for the office computer and visa versa.

I’d pretty much resolved myself that I can afford a 30 dollar switch to throw out there.  The problem is that i just got off of a huge backup with my “personal budget” from buying several expensive items “in advance” and then paying back the budget.  I’m tired of being broke for the past 2 months on my personal budget.  Also, Black Friday is coming up and I intend to have a chunk of change to spend on good deals.

So I can drop money and be short on BF, or i can wait a few weeks and listen to my wife occasionally complain that the office PC doesn’t have internet access.  So I decided to “sit on” or procrastinate this project.

Then I had the epiphany.  I can move the main Router over to where the switch is now and swap them out.  The only thing plugged into the main router besides the long network cable running across the room tot he switch is an old laptop I was trying to project but i can’t keep running anyway.  It can be dropped.  I was going to plug a media center PC into it for Hulu but Netflix on the Wii eliminates the need for that and I already have a long cable running back to the TV area from before the newer Router was there anyway I can use.

The point is, that I don’t NEED it to be where it is.  Then I get my switch back.

The real point is, because I didn’t rush into putting in the hub or rush out to buy a switch, i came up with the best solution AND it doesn’t cost me anything. I do this a lot.  I did it at my old job all the time.   I’d sit on a project until I’d realize I can combine two obsolete items into something useful or whatever.  The point is, sometimes it’s good to procrastinate.