On My New Acer Aspire E15

Acer Aspire E15 So, right up front I want to say, I’m not trying to sell this as the most amazing machine ever or anything.  I mostly just want to give some thoughts and sort of initial impressions.  I’ve been previously using an HP 311 Netbook as my laptop.  I would argue, at the time, that it definitely was “The best Netbook”.  It’s like 5-6 years old now, it runs like complete crap despite my best efforts.  I’ve replaced the battery and power cord on it 3-4 times, it has all sort of flakey issues with the trackpad and keyboard that start to crop up after it runs for a bit, it’s just, definitely showing its age.  I’ve updated it recently with an Acer Aspire E15.

I’ve been trying and working towards a replacement laptop for a few years now.  I’m awful about saving up large chunks of money given my other hobbies and saving for a laptop is quite a chunk of change.  It also doesn’t help that I keep within my own personal spending budget, and a lot of any “extra income” over the years went to household needs and outfitting everyone else in the family with laptops.

My other problem was trying to decide just what I wanted.  Ideally I wanted something nicer, say, closer to $1000 or so than $500, but saving to that point is kind of a huge hurdle.  I wanted something capable of running games all right, I don’t need or want “highest settings perfect framerate” but I wanted something that would run smoothly for the games I like to play.  These sort of requirements presented a few issues.  Most of the more expensive laptops push form over function, so they would probably work all right for my needs but the higher price mostly means I’m paying for “fancy” looking.  Anything that’s a “Gaming” laptop in that price range is probably overkill for what I want and would be a 40 lb slab of computer.

I also have lost track of “what makes a computer good” several years ago.  Mostly because computing power really plateaued for general use a few years ago.  There’s not a huge difference in computers now than 3-4 years ago aside from power consumption, which is kind of minimal.  In the old days it was simple, more mhz, more ghz means it’s better.  The only real “requirement” I had for processor power was i5 or i7, no i3.  I wanted a decent chunk of RAM, say 8GB+ and some sort of discrete GPU.   Just having some sort of GPU vs “Intel Integrated Graphics” would meet my gaming needs.

Acer Aspire E15I also decided that at some point I needed to stop waffling on what I wanted and just pick something.  I did some searching around on Amazon, filtering specs and such to get less and less selection.  I had kind of been hoping to find a Lenovo Thinkpad but none of them in my price range meet my Graphical desires and they are all brickish.  The brick part wasn’t such a turn off as the integrated graphics.

I eventually settled on the Acer Aspire E15.  It’s a relatively new release (seems to be 2016), it met my desire on specs, it looked fairly nice design wise, it has a ten-key pad.  It was also within my current budget at around $550 dollars.  I did some checking online for reviews and chatter on Reddit and it seemed to be a pretty well liked machine.

I ended up finding it for a $100 less on NewEgg as well, with a 1TB 5200 drive instead of a 256GB SSD.  Now I had a choice to make, way more storage, at a much slower speed, or keep the nice quick SSD.  I even considered ordering the 1TB version and buying an SSD to put in it, essentially giving me a free 1TB drive to use for, whatever.  In the end, I opted for the SSD, for more money.  Having the extra 1TB drive is actually less useful to me than it sounds, I have something like 8-10 TB easily already going in the house across several machines, and I wanted the performance boost of the 256GB SSD.  Also, the hassle of figuring out the best way to install the OS onto the SSD, while not hard, was more trouble than I cared to bother with.  The whole point of upgrading is performance boost over my old laptop.  The most frustrating part of my desktop is I’m still using shitty 5200 RPM drives in it, and it’s the main bottleneck for sure.

Acer Aspire E5-575G-53VG Specs

  • Screen Size: 15.6 inches
  • Screen Resolution: 1920 x 1080 pixels
  • Processor: 2.3 GHz Core i5 6200U
  • RAM: 8 GB DDR4-SDRAM
  • Hard Drive: 256 GB flash_memory_solid_state
  • Graphics Coprocessor: NVIDIA GeForce 940MX (2GB)
  • Operating System: Windows 10
  • Item Weigh: 5.3 pounds

Acer Aspire E15So, onto the actual laptop on some initial impressions.  I’ve been using it for a few weeks now.  It is definitely a nice improvement over my old netbook.  I like having Windows again, though I still like Linux, I like the keyboard with its chicklet keys, I’m satisfied with the size and ports.  It’s even got a USB-C port, which I didn’t notice before buying it.

The 256GB drive is a little tight.  I mostly just need to keep myself more limited to things I’m actually going to use but I’ve installed World of Warcraft, Skyrim, Minecraft, Wildstar, Photoshop, Diablo 3, Office 2010, and a handful of developer apps and I’m already down below 100GB free.  It’s a bit too close for my comfort but I’ll learn to deal with it.  Also, everything runs nicely as expected, though the machine does start to get pretty hot after running Wildstar and Skyrim for a while.

It’s not a touch screen either.  Back when Windows 8 was the hot thing, I would have been all over a touch screen, Windows 10 took us back to a more traditional interface and so the touchscreen is less necessary.  It’s still something that’s kind of neat if it’s there, but it’s less required.

In general, it does seem like a pretty good all-around machine for the price point.  That said, you could probably drop down a bit in price if you don’t want something with a discrete GPU.

My DIY Dance Dance Revolution Hardpad

IMGP0429Something like ten years or so ago, I built my own hardpad for use on Dance Dance Revolution and Stepmania.  Most of the pads that are easily bought are “soft pads”.  These vary in quality, I have a couple of pads that are pretty light weight and plastic I used ages ago.  These pads tend to get damaged pretty easily, especially when wearing shoes, and slide all over the place when playing.  When i used mine in college I actually taped it to the underside of the rug in the dorm and taped out the grid of squares on the surface, so I could play using my shoes.  I’m sure the people living below me loooove that.  Probably as much as I loved the people above me who played dice constantly.   Some more pricey are made of a thicker though still pliable rubbery material.  These mats slide around less due to the grippy nature of the material, but they can get worn out and damaged by the rough beating of shoes.

The ideal pad is a hard pad.  These can run hundreds of dollars on-line.  They also tend to be large and bulky and heavy.  Shortly after i had finished in college I decided to employ me newly acquired Engineering design skills to build my own Hard Pad.  The electronics part was easy.  I went to the local used game store and asked for the cheapest used PS2 controller they had in stock.  The guy behind the counter actually asked if I was planning to build a DDR pad with it, which was funny since I was.

The pad itself was a bit trickier.  I’d studied several design ideas on-line that others has built.  I wanted something that was less bulky than most of the pads I’d seen.  I also wanted to keep costs down somewhat, which meant using a little material as I could and not having to invest in a bunch of expensive triggers to wire into everything.  The trigger is the key component of course, since it registers the steps when playing.  The dead squares are all just plywood covered in sheet metal.

The sheet metal is also what I ended up using to build the triggers for the step squares.  When you press a key on a video game controller, all that happens is that an electrically conductive pad is flattened and shorts the connection between two copper pads on a PCB board.  When the electrical short is made,  current can flow which causes some chip somewhere to register the button press.  For my step pads, I simply enlarged this process by attaching plates of sheet metal tot he base and to the bottom of each step pad.  To give the pads some cushion and bounce, I placed strips of weather stripping bought at the hardware store between the base and the pad.  Stepping on the pad creates more than enough weight to overpower the weather stripping causing the two sheet metal pads to connect and trigger, stepping off allows the weather stripping to flex back up pushing the pad back to a neutral, unconnected position. I took some CAT 5 cable and soldered it to the sheet metal contacts and the appropriate parts inside the PS2 controller to replicate the button press action inside the controller.

Everything else was cutting wood, attaching corner brackets and attaching sheet metal.   Here are some old photos of the process.

The general construction was sound, but it had a few issues that I never really got around to fixing until more recently.

In the original design, I soldered the connections for the step pads tot he controller’s D-pad.  Mostly because the solder points were larger and easier to solder to.  This had some unintended side effects that made the game unplayable at any higher difficulty level.  By design, the controller never expects opposite D-Pad buttons to be depressed at the same time.  That is, it doesn’t expect the player to press left and right at once, the D-Pad generally controls movement in most games, why would you need to press opposite ways at once.  Dance Dance Revolution has “jumps” in more difficult stages, these are sequences where two arrows have to be matched at the same time, as in “jumped on”.  Since the D-pad doesn’t register left+right or up+down, these jumps would never register and were always considered a miss.  Kind of game play breaking in the case of DDR.

I also wanted to add a box to the set up, to replicate the buttons on the front of a real DDR machine used to select songs and options.  Not something important, but it would add to the effect, and if I ever got really ambitious, I could build a whole cabinet someday.

The other major issue, when I built the original design, I didn’t really do any real management of the wires between the controller and the pad.  They kind of strung around on the sides, they were all too long, and the controller itself was permanently attached to the pad, making moving and storing tricky.  I wanted to make the controller bits, detachable.

I’ve since solved all of these problems with some improvements, all somewhat related.  First problem was the triggers not working for jumps.  This was simple but tedious.  I needed to reqire the buttons from the D-Pad to the face buttons (Triangle, Circle, Square, X).  These work just fine when pressed together, lots of games have combinations where you have to press several buttons at once.

Please Parton my Shoddy Soldering

During this process, I also pitched the controller shaped housing and stuffed everything in a generic electrical project box.  I soldered the 4 shoulder buttons to 4 buttons attached to the box lid, to be used to interfacing with the menus.  Problem 2 solved, everything is in a nice box.

IMGP0430

The last bit was to make the controller easily detachable.  There are 4 pads, each with 2 wires, for a total of 8 wires going from the controller to the pad itself.  I was already using CAT-5 cable for the wire, it had 8 wires in it, so I attached an CAT5 end on the controller piece and a CAT5 receptacle to the dance pad.  Now the two were easily separable and securely attachable.

The ultimate test of course, does it all work?

stepmaniaresults

I’ve run several sets of tracks using the new set up and it certainly does work.  My DDR skill needs a lot of improvement to get back up where it was at my peak, but the pad itself works just fine.  Which is sort of the point, because it really is a fun way to get a pretty good workout in a short period of time.

 

 

Saving a Slice of Raspberry Pi

Raspberry_Pi_LogoSo of all the things on the network, the DNS and DHCP server are pretty important.  Especially because my experience has been the router the ISP provided is kind of mediocre at doing the DHCP job.  So when the Raspberry Pi I’ve tasked with doing the work started flaking out I was a little worried.

After some investigation, it seems the SD card had lost a sector, or whatever the equivalent thing is to a sector on flash memory.  These things do have a bit of a limited life and this particular one was a small 4GB card that was a little older.  Four gigabytes isn’t even above the recommended size for the Pi, but I knew I wasn’t planning on putting a lot on it.  Problems arose when it started dying though.  There actually isn’t much using the PiHole, some of the things my wife does with coupons and such I suspect might get blocked and I don’t want the headache of dealing with trying to manually whitelist things and complaints that this and that isn’t working.  The DHCP is another issue.  When the DHCP server disappears, it seems anything using it simply can’t connect to the internet.  I have a lot of static assignments but there’s quite a few assigned by the server.

I may have to look into setting up a secondary backup server, maybe on one of the CHIPs even.

I started out simply re-imaged Raspbian onto a fresh card and setting things up again following the tutorial I had posted.  Everything went pretty smoothly except that I was now out my old config file and would have to go through the hassle of recreating all of the changes I’d made adding and removing devices.

So I went with a new strategy, why not just clone the old card to a new one.  Unfortunately, Win32 Disk Imager, the recommended tool for imaging these SD cards, couldn’t read the whole card, it got hung up and failed partway in.  So I turned to my laptop and Linux hoping for something more robust, which I found in ‘dd’.  It probably stands for “Disk Duplicator”, but don’t quote me on that.

I started running dd to make an image of the old card to put onto a new card, unfortunately, it also failed, like Win32DiskImager.

Back to Square One…

After some searching, I found this post suggesting something called ddrescue.  Most of it wasn’t anything I needed aside from the following.

sudo apt-get install gddrescue
sudo ddrescue -v /dev/sdb /dev/sdc

A few things of note.  My laptop, like many, has a build in SD slot, I added a second using my USB card reader.  I opened the disk manager to get the path to each card, /dev/sdb and/dev/sdc.

This command also hit an error at the same point as both Win32DiskImager and the “dd” command, but it pushed on through, recovering everything else.  At this point it’s a matter of hoping that one bad spot wasn’t int he middle of an important file.

Internet of Things, Internet of Stuff

I wanted to take some time to touch on my every changing collection of Internet of Things style devices.  Honestly, it’s kind of iffy what constitutes an “IOT” device, but for the most part I’m sticking with “cheap” and “non traditional computing devices”.

The chief player among these are of course…

The Raspberry Pi

I’m up to 5 Raspberry Pis, a B+, two B2s, one B3, and one Pi Zero.  I have already discuss these quite a bit so they don’t need a ton of additional discussion.  The B+ still operates my DNS/DHCP server, one B2 still runs my IRC stuff, one B2 still runs a Minecraft server.  I actually have not yet come up with a good use for the B3 and Zero yet.  I’ve started messing with Windows 10 IOT on the B3 a bit and there is a Retro Gaming GameBoy project using the Pi Zero floating around on Reddit I may have a go at.

Arduino

If Raspberry Pi is the king of IOT, then Arduino is definitely the Queen. I’ve kind of dropped out of doing Arduino projects a bit and dismantled most of the ones I had built.  Other than adding a WiFi enabled board to my set (by mistake, I thought I was ordering a Shield not a board), not much has changed on my Arduino library.

i did try to build a little digital hourglass project I found online but it’s not going super great.  Stay Tuned for More

Next Thing’s CHIP

CHIP is still one of the most annoying and impossible to search for terms online.  I’m up to three CHIPs now, I’ve received my second Kickstarter CHIP and my VGA DIP.  I’ve still been having some bad luck getting my CHIPs to do much of anything.  I tried to build an Amazon Alexa with no luck in the end after a ton of troubleshooting.  I’ve been trying to get Synergy combined and running on one to let it work with my multi monitor set up.

Now that the Kickstarter campaign is more or less finished and the CHIP is reaching a wider audience I’m hoping it starts to get more support online.

Remix Mini

Another kickstarter product, the Remix Mini is a small computer that runs Android as a desktop.  It works pretty well, I mostly used it last year while traveling for work in the Hotel Room.  I have not touched it since, for one simple, stupid reason.  The HDMI output doesn’t support any of my HDMI to DVI cables.  I can’t plug it into a regular monitor, so I just have… not used it.  I could plug it into a TV but it’s effectively a simple desktop machine and doesn’t work as well for a “lean back” experience.  Maybe if I had a wireless KB and Mouse it would work better.

It’s a shame to because I was really looking forward to this one and it runs a lot of my apps surprisingly well.

ChromeCast

I picked up a Chromecast last year on Black Friday. I used it a bit but in the end, it’s ended up in a drawer.  It’s just too much of a hassle and it caused too many problems.  First off, the hassle.  My crappy old Nexus 7 is partially to blame here but in general the lack of any built in interface is just a flat out pain.  Having to dig out my tablet to use it is a pain.

Worse yet, it was causing problems with the Wireless in the house.  I disabled guest mode which eliminated the problem (eliminating the interference) but it’s still kind of lame that it was an issue to start with.

Kindle Fire Stick

A more recent addition to the network, I added a Kindle Fire Stick.  This is effectively the same as the Chromecast, without the hassle and bull shit of needing a separate device to use it.  It’s not completely without it’s issues but it works pretty well.  The main problem I’ve had is that it loses signal, a lot.  It doesn’t work as all directly hooked to my HDMI switch and at this point it’s cabled out and laying out on the floor behind everything to get it away from any interference.

It runs Amazon videos, which I don’t really use, it runs Netflix, which is used a lot.  It also works well with the fact that I buy my MP3s primarily through Amazon.  Another nice bonus, I use Amazon Cloud to backup all of my Photos, so they are all available through the Fire Stick now to view on the TV.

SteamBox

 Another newer addition is the SteamBox.  Specifically, the cheap streaming box.  It works pretty nicely.  I haven’t had a chance to really put it through the loops yet but my first tests worked well.  I’ll probably do a more in depth write up at some point on it.

Pentax K-3

I’ve recently upgraded my DSLR and have had a bit to play around with it and get a feel for it. I went for an upgrade over my old Pentax K-7 to a Pentax K-3.

  • I already have lenses so I saved money by buying Body Only
  • I like my K-7, it just got worn out
  • The K3 has a build in flash unlike the K-3II, so when my wife uses it she doesn’t have to fight with an external flash
  • It’s not the newest K-1, which means it costs less, though is still nice

I mentioned my K-7 became “worn out”. I have no other way to describe it. I noticed around the end of last year it started taking extremely washed out photos when using the flash. I’m taking nothing but white screen if it was anything up close. I figured there was a sensor or something going bad and looked into several avenues to get suggestions on it to possibly get it repaired. This whole exercise ended up being completely futile. Every forum and even the camera shop I tried basically tried to give me photography advice or tell me how “using the flash isn’t a good idea”.

Yeah, I get that. I get all that exposure and shutter speed and f-stops and blah blah blah and no, the flash isn’t always great but not every photo needs a tripod and a set up, sometimes it’s just a photo of a moment and not a piece of art or some bull shit like that.

There is something wrong with the camera. Even when I tried to replicate the settings on a fresh photo of an older photo for comparison that there is obviously something wrong, I got nowhere. So I gave up and upgraded instead. chances are the repair would have been more than I wanted to pay anyway. The camera still sort of works, on a tripod, with freakishly long exposure times and things are still kind of yellow. The best suggestion I ever got was that it’s not stopping down properly.

This new camera works so much smoother and better. It also lacks several of the nitpicky problems that plagued my K-7 since day one. I always chocked those up to it being a pretty early model of DSLR in it’s class especially. It did real full HD video, it had higher mega pixels than comparable cameras at the time and it’s the only one (at the time) that was weather sealed. The K-7 was pretty nice, but mine had issues, and I have no idea how prolific they were, if at all. For one, it lost the date any time the battery was removed. Not a huge issue. More of an issue, it would over heat when recording video for more than around 20 minutes. I always chocked that up to new tech and the weather sealed body being poor for ventilation. Third, half the time when using the live view to take photos, it would snap, then show “Battery Depleted” even when full. I don’t use Live view a lot but sometimes it’s convenient for getting funny angles where I’m holding the camera over my head.

The K-3 has none of these problems. I’ve done all of these things and had zero issues. The video is the best part, I spend last weekend recording a ton of video for my wife’s home business and had no over heating at all, after hours or recording, some single segments being 10-15 minutes long. I’m seriously considering using it in place of my DVC80 Video Camera this year for a show I record each year. Upgrading to HD from SD would be really nice. My only issue is I wasn’t able to get Premier to accept the video, but that is probably a settings issue somewhere.

Anyway, not much directly to say about I otherwise, aside from it’s a nice upgrade from my K-3. The Dual memory card slots will be nice and the interface all around is more refined and easier to use. Here’s a few photos I’ve taken with it, just for kicks. Nothing amazing or anything.

Figma Indiana Jones

Saber Struggle

Sinister... Five?